Granada Travel Guide: Two Days of Tapas, Views, and the Alhambra

Granada is a must-visit on any trip to Spain. The city is famous for its tapas culture: order a drink and a small plate arrives, free or included. Keep ordering drinks and the plates keep coming. We embraced this tradition fully during our two-night stay, moving from one local bar to the next and sampling many flavors in true Spanish style.

DAY 1:

We arrived in Granada mid-afternoon by train from Seville and checked into Hospes Palacio de los Patos. From the hotel we headed straight toward the city center, passing the Cathedral and wandering through the Alcaicería, the old silk market. The narrow streets are lined with stalls selling North African-inspired goods—fun to browse even if you don’t buy anything.

Because many good restaurants close in the late afternoon, we initially landed at a disappointing touristy spot near the market. To recover, we walked to Calle Navas, a lively street known for bars and tapas, and found an unassuming gem: Casa Fernando on Calle Navas 28. The place was packed with locals—always a promising sign. We ordered drinks and the owner served a generous tapa. Then, unexpectedly, the bar filled with live, spontaneous flamenco: an older gentleman sang a traditional ballad, a young woman danced, and the whole room joined in. That improvised performance lasted on and off for over an hour and made our visit unforgettable. Casa Fernando is a great stop if you want a relaxed, authentic atmosphere and excellent tapas.

As evening fell we took a taxi to Mirador de San Nicolás, the famous viewpoint with sweeping vistas of the Alhambra, the Sierra Nevada, and Granada below. From there we descended to El Huerto de Juan Ranas, a terrace restaurant with outstanding views—perfect for drinks and light plates. We didn’t stay for dinner, but it’s an excellent option for sunset and a relaxed meal.

Back in town, we ended the night at El Tabernáculo, a uniquely decorated bar whose walls are covered with Semana Santa memorabilia. It’s theatrical, memorable, and another great place to enjoy the continuing parade of complementary tapas as you drink.

DAY 2

The highlight of day two was a guided tour of the Alhambra—an essential experience when in Granada. Even though we had visited before, the guide’s insights brought the palaces, gardens, and history to life in new ways and are well worth the cost.

Exiting the Alhambra through the rear gate leads down into Plaza Nueva, where we treated ourselves to cold beers and more tapas. Los Diamantes is a local favorite for seafood tapas and Tinto de Verano—an ideal spot for a casual lunch after touring the palace. We also tried Los Manueles nearby; it was solid, though not exceptional.

After a siesta at the hotel we enjoyed a modern tapas dinner at TúnTún, a contemporary spot serving creative small plates alongside the usual complimentary tapas. This change of pace was welcome after several days of traditional tapas.

To finish our final evening we returned to Calle Navas for wine at La Tana, a popular wine bar where the drinks come with generous tapas. It’s a busy spot and can be touristy, but the quality of the wine and food makes it worth a visit.

Sights to See

• La Alhambra — buy tickets in advance to avoid disappointment.
• Mirador de San Nicolás — incredible views of the Alhambra and Sierra Nevada.
• Capilla Real — the royal chapel with fascinating history.
• Alcaicería — the historic silk market, great for wandering.
• Basilica San Juan de Dios — a beautiful baroque church worth a look.

Where to Eat and Drink (highlights from our trip)

• Los Diamantes — excellent seafood tapas.
• El Tabernáculo — memorable, curious decor and dependable tapas.
• La Tana — a cozy wine bar with great tapas.
• TúnTún — modern, inventive tapas plates.
• Casa Fernando (Calle Navas 28) — authentic local atmosphere and spontaneous flamenco.
• El Huerto de Juan Ranas — terrace dining with a view.
• Café 4 Gatos — a recommended spot for breakfast if you have time.

In just two days you can experience Granada’s best: the Alhambra, dramatic viewpoints, and an authentic tapas crawl. Take your time, follow the locals to busy bars, and let the free tapas lead the way—Granada rewards curious walkers and hungry eaters alike.